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In the fall of 1839, Republic of Texas president Mirabeau Lamar charged a delegation of five horsemen with finding the best place for the capital. Their choice was the small, remote community of Waterloo on the north bank of the Colorado where the river cascades down the Balcones Escarpment. The next year the legislature confirmed the selection and renamed it in honor of Stephen F. Austin, colonizer of the first American settlement in Texas.
Growth during Austin's first decade was sporadic. A Mexican invasion, the danger of American Indian raids and the town's isolation discouraged many settlers. More important than these risks was Sam Houston's opposition to Austin. During his presidency he moved the capital to Houston and later to Washington-on-the-Brazos.
In the fall of 1839, Republic of Texas president Mirabeau Lamar charged a delegation of five horsemen with finding the best place for the capital. Their choice was the small, remote community of Waterloo on the north bank of the Colorado where the river cascades down the Balcones Escarpment. The next year the legislature confirmed the selection and renamed it in honor of Stephen F. Austin, colonizer of the first American settlement in Texas.
Growth during Austin's first decade was sporadic. A Mexican invasion, the danger of American Indian raids and the town's isolation discouraged many settlers. More important than these risks was Sam Houston's opposition to Austin. During his presidency he moved the capital to Houston and later to Washington-on-the-Brazos.
The people of Austin didn't take all this capital-moving lying down. In late 1842 Sam Houston sent a contingent of Texas Rangers to retrieve government documents still being housed in Austin. A hotel keeper named Angelina Eberly saw the men loading a wagon and fired a cannon in their direction, which didn't stop them but did alert the rest of the town. A group of determined citizens caught up with Houston's men and took back the papers without bloodshed, thus concluding an episode in Texas history known as the Archive War.
It took two statewide voter referendums to finally settle the matter in Austin's favor. After the Civil War, the city's struggles as a frontier capital ended with the coming of the railroad and the subsequent founding of the University of Texas.
Although the city's skyline today is dominated by contemporary glass-and-steel office towers and high-rise hotels, two longtime landmarks still stand tall: the 1888 Texas State Capitol, the dome of which rises higher than even the U.S. Capitol's, and the picturesque University of Texas Clock Tower.
Authorized in 1882 and completed in 1888, the Capitol was plagued by controversy from the beginning, not the least of which was the issue of who actually owned it. In fact, the state still has no clear title to the grounds, despite having paid for the land three times.
Rising above the sprawling University of Texas campus just a few blocks north of the Capitol, the U.T. Clock Tower serves as a helpful point of reference to new students navigating the streets of this virtual city within a city. The Beaux Arts skyscraper was completed in the late 1930s and contains a 56-bell carillon, which is played on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. The tower's observation deck is open to visitors but only by way of guided tours; reservations can be made at the university's Union Building or phone (512) 475-6633.
Among the city's other architectural landmarks are the Lester E. Palmer Events Center, a premier facility for meetings and exhibits in Town Lake Park; the State Archives and Library Building, with its displays of rare documents and an immense mural chronicling Texas history; and the 17,000-seat Frank Erwin Special Events Center.
The city bills itself as "live music capital of the world," no idle boast considering the numerous musical events held year-round. What's more, downtown's East Sixth Street is packed with bars, restaurants and intimate music venues where everything from blues to country to punk rock can be heard. The Warehouse District, which is bounded roughly by Sixth and Third streets on the north and south, Guadalupe Street on the west and Congress Avenue on the east, is another entertainment hot spot.
Although downtown Austin is compact and can be traversed on foot, the free Capitol Metro Go Line makes sightseeing even easier. The service links the Capitol Complex, University of Texas campus and downtown commercial areas with free park-and-ride lots; phone (512) 474-1200 for route information.
Winged creatures have found the city hospitable as well; Austin is home to one of the largest urban bat populations in North America. More than 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats have taken up residence beneath the Congress Avenue Bridge since its 1980 restoration. Emerging each night, they eat up to 15 tons of insects, including agricultural pests. Bat flights can be observed just before sunset from mid-March through early November, with peak viewing in late summer. An observation area is south of the bridge; phone (512) 416-5700, ext. 3636 for flight times.
In the shadow of the "bat bridge" is a recreation trail that stretches more than 10 miles along both shores of Town Lake. Popular with bicyclists and joggers, the path is lined with benches, shelters and water fountains and even has its own bridge spanning the lake. Other recreation options immediately at hand include canoes, kayaks and paddleboats, which are available for rent along the lakefront. Visitors are likely to notice teams sculling across Town Lake, which is a popular training spot for collegiate crews.
Somewhat farther afield are the other Highland Lakes. Austin's Town Lake is just the first in a 163-mile chain formed by a series of dams on the Colorado River. Outside of the city's core are lakes Austin, Travis, Marble Falls, LBJ, Inks and Buchanan. Boating and water skiing are two of the many activities possible there.
Another outdoor activity frequently recommended by locals is a dip in Barton Springs Pool within Zilker Metropolitan Park, which can be especially pleasant on a summer day in Texas. For views of the city, Lake Austin and the surrounding Hill Country, Mount Bonnell, 1 mile past the west end of 35th Street, can't be beat. But be prepared for a bit of a climb: it takes 99 steps to reach the top.